2MoreMiles…

Day 161: (11.55 miles)
mile 2468.46 – 2480.01

Up early with Ballhawk and Sugar, we start the trek to Steven’s Pass and a hitch to the Dinsmore’s for our resupply box and hopefully our replacement tent body.  By the time we got walking, Sugar was gone like the wind, in pursuit of a rendezvous with her boyfriend.  The trail weaved through the forest and downhill switchbacks. 

The trail then traversed uphill through a ski area whose runs were being groomed of trees that had become thick and overgrown.  We spoke to one of the maintenance personnel who was part of the crew cutting down the trees.  We asked him what they were up to.  He told us that the area had not been “groomed” in nearly 30 years and the runs had become too “narrow” in some areas so they were cutting down trees, removing limbs, and creating a downhill course.  A cluster of three trees however remained in the middle of the intended downhill course.  We thought this odd.  He explained that they were waiting for “permission”, from apparently the Forest Service, to remove them.  Ironically they didn’t care about the hundreds of trees clear-cut at the bottom of the run. 

Up and over the ridge and down to the ski lodge and parking lot we continued.  There we spied a familiar vehicle…Coppertone’s!  Root beer float time.  Coppertone had parked at the trailhead that exits into the parking area of the Steven’s Pass ski area.  We decided to cut through the ski area and attempt yet another “direct route”, short cut.  Once again, this was not necessarily a better or shorter route, for when we arrived at Coppertone’s vehicle he told us we had to go back up the hill and exit from the trail…”just kidding”, he said with a smile.  While Coppertone prepared our floats, a woman approached looking bewildered a bit, and asking if this was where the PCT was.  I told her it was, and asked if she was looking for someone in particular.  She said she was just “researching” the PCT, as she and her husband plan to do it once they retire.  We talked for a while about the trail, equipment and resupply strategies.  I did my best to yogi a ride from her to the Dinsmore’s, to no avail.  I didn’t think I smelled that bad.  Oh well, nothing a root beer float can’t fix.  Next stop, the side of the road and a hitch.  There is a sign that instructs you not to cross the freeway but to use the pedestrian overpass, which most hikers ignore.  In keeping with “good karma” points, we used the overpass and started to hitch.  Cars zoomed by at over 70 mph.  This was going to be tough. Within less than 10 minutes a van arrived, dropping off other hikers and asked us if we needed a ride to the Dinsmore’s.  Excellent!  We hollered over to Ballhawk and Socks, that we had a ride and there was enough room to take them as well, so we all clambered into the van. Bill, our driver, was a regular trail angel who was familiar with where we needed to go.  He was also a wealth if information about the history of the area.  He told us about the trains and tunnels that had been blasted through the mountains.  He assured us that the “clouds” that were billowing into the pass was only marine air fog from Pugent Sound…nothing to worry about as far as precipitation goes.  He dropped Ballhawk at the Skykomish post office.  We were headed another 15 miles down the road to Baring where the Dinsmore’s Hiker Haven was.  Before exiting across the bridge from the rail town Skykomish, we spied Sugar walking down the sidewalk with her pack.  I asked Bill to stop, so we could ask her if she ever met up with her boyfriend.  “No” she replied exasperated, “it’s a long story”.  As it turns out she also now needed a ride to the Dinsmore’s.  In, she climbed as well, into what was quickly becoming a clown car, and smelly one at that.  Once in, she told her sad story. When she arrived at Steven’s Pass her boyfriend was just leaving with a tow truck.  His car had died overnight and needed to be repaired. A ten minute encounter and he was gone. He planned to meet her Hiker Haven before the days end. As we were all hungry, a stop at the Baring country store and diner was deemed necessary before the walk across the street and railroad tracks to Hiker Haven.  While inside, we found Oozzle, Thistle, Seeds and his girlfriend Brittany.  We sat with Seeds and Brittany and caught up a bit.  Seeds, being full by now, gave me the rest of his unfinished chocolate shake of which I sucked down in addition to a hearty breakfast.  In a few short weeks, none of this type of ridiculous caloric intake will be appropriate and/or necessary. 

Once fully satiated, we hobbled over to Hiker Haven.  What a place.  It’s run with absolute precision.  A mail room; a wash room compete with shampoo, soap and towels; a laundry room with an assortment of fresh and clean clothes to change into while washing your clothes; an enormous clothes line to air out ones sleeping bag or dry ones tent; WiFi (albeit not that strong); and a hiker “lounge” complete with an assortment of classic VHS movies. 

A particularly bad 007 movie was just finishing. Later, Prospector dropped in Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles.  All the boys (22-27 yrs old) talked about what turtle they were as kids and the crush they had on the female reporter.  Had to laugh, as my son was a Ninja Turtle nearly 24/7 when that film came out.  We discussed whether we would spend ue night or try and get back on the trail for a few miles, as this next section was supposed to be the hardest Washington section and 104 miles.  We decided that if we got all our chores done before 4pm it would be worthwhile to get at least 4 mikes in to make it an even 100 miles and thus five 20 mile days…we had the food.  Here we also booked our flight home for September 22nd.  That would give us a buffer of a couple days to make it to the monument, Manning Park and then Vancouver.  We figured we’d finish somewhere between the 18th and 20th.  While we were not able to book via WiFi, we were able to get ahold of our son and he booked the flight for us.  Success!  Everything done…plenty of time to get some miles in.  Off to the country store, a to-go sandwich and a hitch back to Steven’s Pass.  As luck would have it, Bill was just passing the store on his way to the laundromat.  “You going back so soon?” he asks. Yep, I reply.  “You want a ride?” he asks.  Why of course, and can my friends come too?  We all clamber into his van. 

He drops us off unceremoniously and we begin the second to last leg of our epic journey.  We feel giddy and like horses ready for the barn.  Holy crap, we’re almost done.  We hope the weather will hold for us as we know its no longer summer up here as the leaves have already started to change and its only a matter if time before Mother Nature REALLY turns on us.  Keep calm and hike on we say. 

Day 160: (22.91 miles)
mile 2445.55 – 2468.46

Today we planned to do some extra miles to create a Nero day at Steven’s Pass and a visit to a trail angel’s home (The Dinsmores) for resupply.  We are up before the sun in hopes of using all available light for the day.  Today was not without obstacles.  In fact, it felt like a steeple chase course.  We start by rock hopping across a wide slow moving stream. 

This is followed by a 1000 ft uphill climb with several switchbacks that have rocks and roots littering the trail. 

We then face a jungle gym of downed trees stretch across the trail during a steep stretch requiring some acrobatics.  Now that we have gone up, we now drop down to a creek known for being very dangerous to cross.

We arrive to a loud cascading creek with two thin logs stretched across as a “bridge”. I immediately know this is not for me, even though other hikers encourage me to “go for it”. Paul takes the hook and ventures out, one foot on each log. The logs bow under his weight and he gives a few “Oh Wows” before making it across. By now I’m down to my crocs and wade across without a problem. The crowd gives a few boos, but I’m dry and don’t need the horror or drama of falling in the icy water. We quickly filter 4 liters and continue on. Today’s weather heated up fast and we enjoy the shade of the tall pine trees while hiking along small switchbacks, and slowly climbing next to Deception Creek.

Deception Lake

We reached our planned lunch stop at Deception Lake around 1pm. Being a hot day, and having a rock platform to jump from, we couldn’t resist a plunge. Chop Chop went first, but didn’t stay in long. Paul and I followed.  Rather than ease myself in, I decided that a head first racing dive would be appropriate.  Holy Crap!  Paul, after hearing my reaction attempted to “ease” in, but finally chose a cannonball entry.  Stranger, who rarely speaks, followed us screaming equally as loud as we did when we entered the frigid crystal clear water. A quick scramble up the rocks put us back in the warm sun. Once was enough of this refreshing activity. Being awaken by the cold water I had to say “who needs coffee”! Prospector, on the other hand, had heard all the screaming and quickly put his clothes back on, thus chickening out. Of course no one ribbed him about that…right? In the late afternoon we cleared Piper Pass and had a surprising view of Foam Mountain.

This was a perfect place to rest, relax, and sit quietly enjoying the beauty around us. A short little climb past the pass we met up with Ballhawk. Paul had been giving him a hard time about his North Carolina accent by greeting him with “How y’ all doin”? Ballhawk, being a good natured guy, always gave it back with a thicker than normal accent. Ballhawk told us about his job back home as an outdoor counselor for troubled teens…really rich, troubled teens He told us how he once used his southern accent to break through to a kid by teaching him the “Southern” language. I don’t know if this could work with Paul, but it’s worth a shot. I’m ” fix’n” to try it. Ballhawk left us with a promise to save us a campsite at Mig Lake.

Having been on an up hill theme all day the trail turned to down hill switchbacks through some tough and annoying rocks.

This slowed me down, but when the entire trail was blocked by some huge downed trees I just about lost it. I was gased. With some help from Paul, I got over this obstacle. It’s not that that I don’t expect these conditions, it’s the timing. I would have preferred it earlier when I was fresher.  Unfortunately, the trail doesn’t work on my schedule… rats. We made it to Mig Lake just as it got dark and Ballhawk had saved us room between his tent and Sugar’s. It’s then that Sugar told us of her trail drama. Her boyfriend had texted her, via her Delorme, that he was at Steven’s Pass with food, 9 miles ahead. He had been waiting for her since early afternoon.  Using her projected schedule, he had driven from Vancouver B.C. to surprise her.  The element of surprise was achieved, however their meeting will be a bit delayed. Heart broken, she plans to rise extra early.

What happens when trees "blow up"

Day 159: (20 miles)
Mile 2445.55

After a restful night’s sleep and awaking to miraculously non-swollen and/or sore feet we began our trek to rejoin the actual PCT and the rest of the thru-hikers.  As one might not think, we were not alone in our Goldmeyer adventure, as several others (10) had also taken the alternate…they are just younger and faster than us (me). We leap frogged each other as we climbed to the top of Miller Gap that opened into a spacious meadow bordered by sharp granite mountains. 

Along the way we discovered an old PCT trail marker and surmised that the original PCT must have been routed through here…booya!

Take that, those of you who thought us slackers for trying to shave off some miles.  From the gap, it fed into Ivanhoe lake, teaming with fish surfacing zestfully while feeding. 

Overhead the distinctive sounds of fighter jets blasted above us…the Blue Angels were in a nearby town for an airshow.  We pointed and cheered as they “practiced”.  One sharply rolled 90 degrees to his right and back again as if acknowledging our presence.  Ah the sounds and sights of freedom.  Following a frankly miserable, switchback laden descent down a steep, dry and “marble” cluttered trail, we finally join back up with the PCT and friends who are frankly smarter than us.  They left the same time we did, and covered 38 for our 25 miles and met us at the intersection.  Brilliant! (brilliant, if not for the hot springs). They, however, had to negotiate steep ledges and a “catwalk”, which has been described as an “engineering marvel”.  Anything with “engineering marvel” and catwalk, no matter how great the view(s), I will pass on.  Knife’s Edge was more than enough, as were all the passes in the Sierras, save Muir Pass which was just a lot of snow.  Once we returned to the PCT, proper, we found our complaints about its tread had evolved into gushing about its “easy” grade and “meticulous” upkeep.  It appears that Goldmeyer upped the appreciation factor ten-fold. 

We ended the day camping at one of the many campsites at Deep Lake, where Fresh joined us later in the evening.

Steps leading to the pools

Day 158: (15 miles)

Today was “shortcut” day.  I know we should have learned by now that “short cuts” don’t necessarily mean they’re “short” OR “easier”.  While this one lopped off 10 miles distance wise, it did not take 10 miles of wear and tear off our feet.  In fact, we think this alternate (and approved) trail added 20 additional miles to our feet and especially my knees.  This morning started with spending an extra hour trying to find and get to the trailhead that leads to the Goldmeyer alternate.  Why, you wonder did we seek out and brave this route?  Why a dip and soak in the famous Goldmeyer Hot Springs of course! This route is approximately 25 miles till it intersects again with the PCT.  It is 11 miles to the hot springs.  The trail initially takes you to Snow Lake, which is beautiful and inviting, but this was not our destination. 

Snow Lake

Beyond there, the trail got dicey.  It was down right awful!  Although it appeared that the vegetation had been ” groomed” and cut back, for which we were supremely grateful, 2 miles (of course) of it was treacherous.  Steep and wet we descend nearly 3000 feet in about 2 miles.  The trail is narrow and fraught with tripping hazards that my feet seem to gravitate to. 

There was also a lovely rock/boulder section.  We were however treated to a view of a seriously tall cascading  waterfall nearly 1000 feet tall.  After the steep descent we transitioned into a scary dark, dank forest, where everything not moving was covered in thick bright green moss, and the air was reminiscent of Disneyland’s Pirates of the Caribbean ride. Yo-Ho, Yo-Ho… trickled into my head.  Evidence of logging days gone by percolated to the surface, with massive decomposing tree stumps dotting the terrain and thick rusted steel cables sparsely exposed peeked through the blanket of spongy green moss. 

Not all of the old growth trees had been sacrificed in the name of progress, as trees over 20 feet in diameter, and a thousand (if not more) years of age, loomed above us and graced the edges of the trail.  The wear and tear of our descent wained at these sights. 

Here comes the soaker!

A brief lapse in concentration during a stream crossing resulted in a foot soaker for me, and a snicker from Paul.  One more obstacle to negotiate before access to the hot springs…a triple log crossing over the Middle Fork of the Snoqualmie river. 

Without even thinking much about it, I deftly crossed without a worry, to which Paul memorialized with a photo.  It only took me over 2400 miles to overcome river log-crossing anxiety…or at least suppress it enough to be successful.  A short walk up into the private property of the Goldmeyer conservation area and we were at the caretaker’s cottage where we purchased access to the Hot Springs.  While it was not remotely anything we had pictured, it was well worth the effort to get there and the cost. 

I'm in the upper pool (104 degree) and it cascades down to the next pool below

A long tunnel like cave with a near chest deep pool dispensed the over 104 degree luxurious water into two other built-in shallow pools (think kiddie pool).  An icy, spring fed pool made up the fourth pool.  We spent over 2 hours there soaking our battered feet and bodies until we were shriveled.  Invigorated and relatively pain free we set off for another 5 miles.  Our destination, horse camp.  We were not unaware, but had briefly forgotten that we were at the bottom of a deep canyon which necessitated a “climb” out of it.  Our next 5 miles would be up…duh!  Along the way were two springs we had hoped to water up at to avoid having to take the time to filter.  The first, pictured below, was tepid and although it did not smell, it tasted super sulfury. 

The second was fed from a pipe stuffed into the ground and filled an overflowing plastic barrel.  This was icy cold and had a slight sulfur taste.  The trail was not unkind to our feet, but required concentration, which was difficult being that there was so much beauty to absorb. 

It wasn’t long before we reached horse camp and a raised/flat campsite.  We had one of our the best night’s sleep on the trail.

Day 157: (zero miles)

Today was a relaxation day, with the exception of doing laundry and going through our resupply box.  As we had 4G service on our cell and WiFi at the hotel, a plethora of posts were added to our blog in hopes of getting as up to date as possible.  It’s getting harder and harder to pen a post each evening as we are tired and the nights are getting colder, so the thumbs don’t last as long.  We grazed most of the day and finished the day off with watching the NFL opener at the bar next to the Inn, which featured the Seattle Sea Hawks at home.  The bar was busy with mostly PCT hikers.  Sea Hawks won, which had fellow PCT hiker, Ball Hawk, a rabid Green Bay Packers fan, crying in his beer. Paul bought him a consolation beer to cheer him up. 

Pail and Ball Hawk

Ball Hawk (a baseball term, and his AT trail name), who is from Asheville North Carolina, has been talking about this game for weeks, and his miles have been tied to getting to the Summit Inn to be able to watch the game.  When the game was over, we headed to our room for the final packing and prep for an early morning departure.  Canada calls.

Day 156: (26.08 miles)
mile 2375.92 – 2402

Woke up to pouring rain, and puddles outside where our packs were resting.  Not only was it wet, it was cold. We were surprised…and relieved to see that it had not snowed.  Decision time.  Ration our food and wait out the rain, or suck it up, put on wet clothes and walk the equivalent of a marathon in muddy wet conditions to Snoqualmie Pass and the Summit Inn. Marathon it is!  We pack up our gear.  It seems that nothing escaped the deluge last night. 

Onward we slogged, soaked inside and out.  The wind howled, the cloud that sat upon us continued to spit rain.  Water spurted from almost every rock crevice.  Our feet squished as we walked.  At least they’ll be clean we mused.  Even though we were miserably wet and cold, we made good time.  After most of the morning spent shuffling through the rain and mist, it started to “clear” up, and the sky no longer leaked “liquid sunshine”.  This does not mean however, it was dry by any means. On a downhill traverse, deep in the forest, I took a hard fall when my feet came out from under me after I inadvertently and unintentionally stepped on a wide, slick, log.  While I saw the log, and recognized it was slick, somewhere the message from my eyes to my brain to my feet of, ‘Don’t step on that log’, must have, by the time it reached my feet somehow lost the “don’t” part.  I went down so fast and hard, Paul was sure I had broken something, most likely my hip. 

As nothing was broken, Paul took the opportunity to capture the moment

As I lay on the ground, I took inventory.  Seems like everything is good. Phew!  I wriggle out of my pack and slowly get up, continuing to conduct inventory.  Still good.  My hip and forearm are sore, and I expect some good bruising, but nothing that will keep us from getting to Snoqualmie.  I look down and see a deep dent in the mud where I had landed.  Hmm, good thing I guess. 

We continue on, still making good time.  We reach the pass as night falls.  Natural light dissipates and neon lights glow in the near distance. 

Our push now is to make it to the Summit Inn before its attached Pancake house and restaurant closes.  Our feet and legs are screaming, but our stomachs and the thought of a hot shower and warm, dry, bed overrode the pain and discomfort.  With all the luck and effort we could muster, we make it with a few minutes to spare and dine at the Pancake house.  We decide as we dine, that we will take a Zero tomorrow…pretty sure we’ve earned it.

Day 149: (20.39 miles)
2237.52 – 2257.91

After a restful night in the hostel we had coffee and a danish on the porch of the Grocery Store. Butterfingers had arranged a ride to the trailhead with trail angel, “Bob”. Bob, a retired firefighter, was right on time and took us up the hill (all thirteen miles) to the trailhead. On the way up the hill we had a view of Mt. Adams. She was covered in snow and towered high in the sky. Today we would be skirting her base as we climbed to higher ground. Stranger, leading the way took us deep into the forest and up a steep climb. You know by now this is the normal morning routine…our morning “vitamin”. An hour into the hike Paul asked me to check the Delorme to see if he had turned on the tracking. The Delorme is ” always” attached to his pack in the same location, except today it’s missing. Holy crap! Paul always puts it on the pack first thing, so this is highly unusual and has us instantly worried. He searches his pack with everything out on the trail like a yard sale. We start going through our options, call the Grocery Store (if we have signal), or hike back down to the road and hitch into Trout Lake. None of these sound good. One last search in the already frisked backpack and eureka! Paul can’t figure how it got in the bottom of the side pocket, but we are relieved. When you do a hike like this you learn to do everything the same way every time so these thing don’t happen. The one time you don’t, always costs you time and grief. We tend to learn these thing more than once, reminding us we are only human or descended from apes.

We ascended through a burnt forest and exited into volcanic rock and a spectacular view of Mt. Adams, which up to now was blurred by the burnt forest.

We hiked most of the day with an ever changing view that made us stop, gawk and and point.

We stood right below and the mountain, which seemed to be straight up. We saw Chop Chop and her husband, Prospector, and traded stories about the days’ hike. We were all headed to Lava Springs for water and a campsite.

The trail alternated between lava rocks and green forest until we reached the spring late in the day. The spring was flowing out of the lava rocks into a pool surrounded by rocks. It was crystal clear, ice cream headache cold, water that was very refreshing after the long day. Many hikers had gathered in a “group” camp, while we found a campsite above the spring. Tomorrow we head toward Goat Rock.

As we stated before, our WiFi connections have been poor for some time.  We have tried to post from some areas, but again our posts apparently contain too large of media files, thus the next posts (over 17) can’t be uploaded till after Sept 22nd.  Suffice it to say, we have successfully completed the PCT in its entirety as of September 18th, for a total of 171 days.  Additional posts will continue as we examine our journey and assimilate back into “normal” life and “civilization”.

Day 155:(20.44 miles)
mile 2355.48 – 2375.92

After a warm and dry night in the Urich Cabin we set out to make big miles so we could reach Snoqualmie in two days. The low cloud from yesterday sat above us and it seemed just a matter of time before it would rain. We prepared by hiking with our rain pack covers already on and our rain gear on the top of our packs. Sure enough it wasn’t long before it started to drizzle. On went the rain gear and we walked in “on again, off again” rain/ drizzle all morning. We had been on a slow climb in the Dark Forest just before noon when we were surprised by a cooler of sodas and three chairs.

Magic!! The rain had lowered our spirits, so the magic is just what we needed. Brock, Socks and Sugar joined us. We had a short bitch session about the the weather and concluded with, “it could be snowing”! We meandered through the day with not much of a view of anything because the cloud sat on us the whole day. Late in the day we were approaching Tacoma Pass and a forest road where we found another cooler with soda and Rainer beer. Being late in the day with the temperature dropping fast we opted to take a “soda to go”. The next place to camp was at the top of the pass, a 1500ft climb. We decided it was better to get it over today and be left with 27 miles to Snoqualmie. Up we climbed as the heaviest rain of the day began to come down. We reached the pass and tucked in between tall bushes and a few trees and put up the tent when the rain slowed for about ten minutes. We threw everything in our tent as quickly as we could unpack it from our bags, and just in time as it started to pour heavily.  By that time we were nearly frozen with teeth chattering.  We’ve noticed that the rain in Washington is different  from Oregon…it’s COLD and chills you to your core.  Huddling inside our tent we made hot meals and hot apple cider as the wind and rain raged outside. Even before we fell asleep the wind was gusting such that we thought our tent was going to blow over, but it held fast.
Our only problem was that after we had eaten, we both had to pee, but it was raining so hard we couldn’t risk going out for fear the interior would become soaked as well. This is going to be a rough night.

Outside ridge past Sheep Lake, looking at our upcoming trail

Day 154: (21.2 miles)
mile 2334.22 – 2355.48

We climbed out of Sheep Lake in the morning to the Fog Trail Junction. Good name for this location because we were back in the clouds. The air was cool and the clouds appeared to be ready to rain at any time. Washing is very lush vegetation and is different from Oregon, in that the ground cover is low to the ground. This allows you to see further into and through the forest. Paul spotted wild strawberries growing along side the trail. Small as they were, they were sweet. 

Strawberries, small but delicious

He had picked wild strawberries as a child in the woods of Michigan and told me stories about strawberry hunting. Our goal today was to get to Urich Camp/Government Meadow. Our trail notes said there was a shelter which could be any thing from an old broken down wood structure to something really awesome. Having been cold most of the day, we were looking for a warm place to spend the night for a change, and to not have to hope for some sunlight to try and dry everything out mid day the next day. Late in the day we crossed a small creek and the trail opened to a beautiful meadow. Government Meadow. (Note to self…find out why its called Government Meadows). At the edge of the meadow was a large log cabin which looked to be in excellent condition. We knocked on the door but no one was home. Like all the shelters we have seen along the trail this was a honor cabin for wary hikers. Inside was a large wood burning stove and a loft. About thirty people could sleep here comfortable. Of course it’s only floor space, no beds…but it’s warmer and drier than outside!  Soon the herd starts to filter in.  First Double Stuff (he’s from the UK and the one that did the “ice bucket” challenge earlier), then Seeds and Rorshart followed by Doc (a photographer from Chicago), Ball Hawk and Sugar (a long tall Canadian gal who works for Canada’s equivalent to our IRS), and a few other hikers we had not met yet.  Reading this back kind of sounds funny.  It’s like I’m listing the names of the dwarfs in Snow White.  Anyways, Double Stuff tries, and then forgos, lighting a fire in the stove as all it does is fills the cabin with smoke. A rumor on the trail is that the cabin is filled with mice and your food bags will be ransacked and mice molest you all night.  We saw no evidence of mice when I swept out the cabin when we arrived, so we Double Stuff, Doc, Seeds and Rorchart brave the fabled invasion.

Urich Cabin, Doc behind me