Up early (no surprise) we sneak out of our room careful not to wake Sue and Jerry…fully. We walk in the darkness of a sleeping Burgos. Saturdaynight must have been something as revelers can still be seen straggling home. This is the only time I have ever felt uncomfortable in these cities. Maybe it has to do with my past life, still a little wary of things that wander aimlessly about during hours one should be sleeping. (We of course don’t count). Finding the yellow blazes/arrows and Camino signs in the dark is a cross between an Easter egg hunt and the picture game “Where’s Waldo”. Takes some creativity and determination. We fumbled our way out of town and eventually landed on ” natural tread” as they call anything but asphalt or cement. We walk through open space that leads to farmland and wheat fields. Upon first glance the tread appeared to be gravelly, however closer inspection revealed the “gravel” to be grains of wheat thickly scattered about the path left over from an earlier harvest.
So back to tourist mode. A hearty breakfast of actual eggs and mostly cooked bacon (seems they like their bacon limp), followed by a tour of the Cathedral. Peregrinos get a reduced rate and an audio guide in your native tongue. This place is huge and visually overwhelming. Having studied art history, I am on information overload and taken aback by some of the pieces by pivotal artists and their styles.
Santa Maria Magdalena by Leonardo da Vinci and Giovan Pietro Rizzoli)
I took a few pictures, but seeing these pieces in person is the only way to do them justice.
(If you look closely you can see blood on Christ’s forehead)
Most of the pieces are reverent in their portrayal of the gospel, especially when “discussing” anything about Mary. On the other hand, I found a choir seat piece where the artist got away with a whimsical portrayal of the many vices of man, some of which were graphic, but if it’s categorized as “art”, one seems to get away with it.
In keeping this ” PG”, I’ve included only one item. I found myself laughing, while others in the gallery thought me odd…they didn’t get the joke of the artist poking fun at the Catholic Church, or rather the wealthy priest or Bishop who commissioned the work. Several hours later I emerged from the Cathedral as Paul, Sue and Jerry waited patiently outside, watching people drift by. More wandering. A bite of lunch, and then to the Museum of the Evolution of Man. This is where we got the significance of Atapuerca. Realizing we’ve spent most of our “day off” on our feet…walking, we head back to our Hostal for a siesta before dinner. I think we’re on the edge of going “native”. When we emerge from our siesta, the city is alive with droves of people, dressed to the “nines”. I give it up to the Spainards, they know how to dress. Their wines are pretty good too. We returned to San Lorenzo street as it is known for their Tapas bars and food. Once again, we are not disappointed. Satiated, we return to our Hostal and prep for our next day(s).