Either our legs are getting stronger and our endurance is getting better, or the trail is getting easier and our packs are getting lighter. Probably both.

Day 10: 12 mi. (1528 – 1540)

Up until today, I have been plagued with a nasty case of blistering heat rash that even Vagisil could not conquer. And the rash is not in the nether region, but at my bra-line, and is extremely painful. Hot and wet from sweat 24/7 and a constantly damp bra makes for a more than uncomfortable situation. Luckily, I found the ultimate in cure and protection during our resupply shopping.

This stuff is the best I’ve ever found, and from now on, sorry, Vagisil, you’ve been replaced. However, the rash is pretty bad, so if this doesn’t work by the time we get to Dalton, it’ll be time for Urgent Care.

Right on time, Pokey picked us up from McDonald’s.  The morning was, and the day looked to be much cooler than the previous week, but it was still unmistakably muggy. We knew the day would include lots of climbing, and we hydrated ourselves appropriately the night before, but one never can tell based upon the humidity and terrain, how bad it will actually be. We have grown a bit wary of heat exhaustion and don’t want to get anywhere near that situation again. Even though it appeared a bit overcast, we could tell that the humidity was even worse than the day before. We were going to be close with our water calculations and the available water sources. Four miles per liter will NOT cut it here. Today is going to be more like 1.5 miles per liter.

The first half of the morning included a pleasant walk on the edges of farmland and head-high cornfields.

We crossed over the Housatonic River. Passed Haley Pond that looked more like a placid lake. By this time, it was 10am, and we were soaked through and through, as if we had been swimming fully clothed. Our 2+ miles/hour rate of walking dropped to 1.5 mph. By the time we reached the South Wilcox Shelter, it was 6 pm, and we had had enough. There was no 2 more miles push to the North Wilcox Shelter left in us.

Day 11: 16.2 mi (1540 – 1555.7 +.5)

Because it was supposed to rain, and there were reports of a “problem bear” in the area, rather than pitch our tent, we decided to stay inside the shelter for the night. The shelter was designed to hold quite a few people with several bunks and a loft. Thinking other hikers would arrive later in the evening, we squeezed into a double bed size bunk. It was like sleeping in our old two man Big Agnes Tiger Wall tent. After a fitfull night’s sleep, we’ve decided that we’d rather just set up our tent (three man Big Agnes Tiger Wall). And of our concern for additional hikers arriving and a supposed problem bear. Neither happened.

Once again, we started the day in musty damp clothing. We are beginning to smell like our son’s hockey bag when he was younger.  While it evokes fond memories,  the smell is still nauseating.

This day’s terrain was much nicer and easier to traverse. A comment on our FarOut app inspired us to seek out a spring just up a road from where the trail crossed over it.

It was simply marvelous.  Icy cold, and refreshing water flowed into a large cast-iron pot. It was certainly worth the side trip. While we sat there taking a break, eating our lunch, we noticed that that road (Jerusalem Rd) marries up again with the Appalachian Trail. Considering the fact that my knee was swelling slightly, we thought a flat road walk was in order.

Of course, it led uphill, but we were treated to open views of farmland and amazing colonial architecture. As we returned to the AT, we stopped at the “AT Stand” and purchased an ice cream sandwich.

For the most part, the day was much cooler, and the humidity seemed much lower.

We moved with much more ease across boardwalk lined swamps and pine forest. I made the mistake of letting my mind wander from watching my feet on the trail and suddenly found myself hitting the ground hard upon rolling my left ankle. After a bit of whimpering and inventory, my hike was not over. I was going to be able to walk it off…mostly. By 6pm we were mostly ready to quit. The only problem there was no place to camp, so we pushed on to the Upper Goose Pond Cabin.

Day 12: 11.3 mi. (1555.7 +.5 – 15566.5)

Best cure for a sore ankle and feet? Pancakes! Yup, at the Upper Goose Pond Cabin, volunteers serve coffee and pancakes every morning.  The cabin is owned by NPS but is staffed and maintained by Massachusetts AT volunteers. It’s a nice way to meet and share stories with other hikers. There were even a few we recognized from Salisbury.  As we drank our coffee and ate our pancakes, we talked and laughed with the likes of Jupiter, Day One, Flix, MGD, Rabbi and Squeeze Cheese.

While my ankle felt a little stiff, it was not discolored,  so that was a relief.

Our plan was, at minimum,  get to the October Mtn Shelter, but if we felt good, we’d keep going all the way to the “Cookie Lady’s ” house on Blueberry Hill, where we would camp for the night.

In the sweltering heat, over more boardwalk marshes and with thanks to frosty cold trail magic by Mike, we made it. We had been talking about how cool it is to have a “Cookie Lady”, who has fresh cookies waiting for you up the trail, but wouldn’t it be even better to have “Beer Lady”, waiting for you with an icy cold beer…or two? Well, that’s what Mike was. He decided that in the sweltering heat, someone ought to look after the hikers, and that’s what he did.

He posted a sign just before the county road crossing.  Had a shaded place secure from bugs. Seats upon which to sit. A battery pack to charge your electronics. All manner of trail snacks. AND frosty cold drinks, to include beer! Hmm. Gatorade or beer? We have never been one’s to pass up beer, on trail, regardless of the time of day. So, to Mike’s amazement, we cracked a beer and sat in the bug-free shade and chatted with this amazing trail angel Mike before heading on.

We made to the Cookie Lady’s house, nearly melted and feet on fire. An ice-cold jar of iced tea, a homemade cookie and cool green grass was our welcome. While you can work for your dinner by collecting blueberries on their property, we opted for what we had. We were worked, and had no work to trade.

It rained hard that night with the night sky erupting in flashes of lightning. The air was electric and sticky which made it hard to sleep.

Day 13: 9.6 mi. (1566.5 – 1576.1) and a NERO!

Utter stickiness. It can drive a person crazy. The only thing keeping us sane (depending on your definition of sanity) is that we have an opportunity for a shower, a bed, AC, and clean, dry clothing in Dalton. We secured the room at Daniel’s in Dalton for the night, and we’re hopeful to secure it for another night and a proper ZERO.

After a leisurely morning and gleening trail information from SOBO hiker “Fun Fact” we headed out. Fun Fact let us know we were in for a “stupid climb” and then a “needless steep descent” just before we reached the town of Dalton. We were hardly surprised, as PUDs (pointless ups and downs are the norm, so far, on this trail).

Halfway through our morning hike, and to our utter amazement, another road crossing found us treated to another session of pop-up trail magic. Our angels were two self-proclaimed SASHERs (Short Ass Section Hikers), who were out doing trail magic for the day. They had fresh veggies, hummus, and fruit, along with iced coffee and all other manner of hiker treats.

Seems like heat waves, weekends, and road crossings are the key ingredients for trail magic. We’ll file that recipe away for the future.

Once into Dalton, it was time for a shower and laundry. Food can wait. I will say though, that the magic didn’t stop there. Just before we dropped down into Dalton, a group of local hikers asked us where we were headed. Dalton, we said. “Be sure to eat at Zinky’s”, they told us. “Best food in town. You won’t be disappointed!” We’ll, I can tell you, we followed their advice and we’re definitely NOT disappointed.  In fact, unbeknownst to us, as we were talking with a nice couple at the bar, having finished several thousand calories of deliciousness (solid and liquid), and we’re just about to call for our check, they advised us that they had taken care of our check. What?! No way! Not gonna lie, I teared up with gratitude. It was so unexpected.

Massachusetts,  you and your people are growing on us.